Excusive interview with John Severson CSR | China Surf Report
“无论在什么情况下,与人分享你所热爱的事物,都是生活中最美妙的事情” - 杰瑞·洛佩兹

Interview with John Severson

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by Francesco De Luca  Photos: Courtesy Mr. John Severson

Beijing time 4 A.M. onSaturday morning – Hawaii time 10 A.M. on Friday morning.

While most of China is still dreaming and the sun is still hidden behind the Asian metropolitan skyline, Chinasurfreport’s founder Francesco De Luca met Surfer Magazine’s founder John Severson and Nathan Howe to speak about life, surfing, soul and the new book John Severson’s Surf.

We are stoked!

Severson’s day at the office, San Onofre, 1959

Severson’s day at the office, San Onofre, 1959

Francesco De Luca

We would like to start this meeting using the word “LOVE.” Why? Inside the intro of your new book John Severson’s Surf, Gerry Lopez said: “Sharing something you love is the best life has to offer no matter what the circumstances may be.” You devoted your life to following your love and passion, celebrating the beauty of surfing…what do you think?

John Severson

I think we are talking about Spirit. We are talking about something that comes from the heart, we can call it love, we can call it “stoke” if you are a surfer. Enthusiasm anyway you look at it, and this is a deep feeling that you develop with nature through the wave and through your surfing. Itseems like maybe at times a rather youthful sort of hobby that we might do, but it’s deeper than that. It’s a connection with nature, and fulfillment, a dance, as we’ve discovered and an art. It is life. It’s a lifetime, and as Gerry said it’s sharing something you love, sharing something you are stoked on. It’s the same thing, and it’s basically what I devoted my life to.

Francesco De Luca

That’s beautiful

John Severson

Thank you

Francesco De Luca

Looking back all these years, what is the thing you are most proud of and why?

John Severson

I think that having control of the magazine in the beginning, when it was in a complete vacuum. There was nothing and then there was a magazine.I had a chance to set a direction for surfing and I think I’m most proudthat I set an environmentally consciousness view of the sport, a view of surfing as an art, and did it with a sense of humor. At the time starting the magazine, it was easy to define surfing as I wanted to see it, because no one else was. There was a magazine, and there were the eager readers, and they loved it, and they loved the idea! They loved to laugh and have fun and it wasn’t such a serious sport as it might have been. And I’m most proud ofsetting that course for surfing. Would it have been any different without me, I really don’t know.

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