“the surfer is out there in space, fully alive, on a great ride, like life” John Severson
“Surf is a dream, It’s a metaphysical allegory of life!” John Severson
What happened to John at his crossroads between the sixties and seventies?
Well, John Severson, as he had planned a few years before, after creating the staple media outlet of the surfing industry,then distanced himselffrom it. He returned to a simple life, to his family,to his beloved nature and of course…tosurfing!
He sold the magazine in 1971 and moved to Maui, a pristine island of the Hawaiian archipelago. Here he met his lifelong friend Jim Loomis, who was living in a tree-house and writing poetry about life, cosmology, and love of nature…
Finally John arrived at a life of painting, freedom and…surfing!!
John was recently added to the International Surfing Hall of Fame in 1991 and he also received a Lifetime Achievement Award at the 2011 Surfer Magazine Poll.
John’s life has been rich and filled with extraordinary people, artists, and happenings…many of which are revealed inside his book John Severson’s Surf. We are stoked and honored to introduce it exclusively here on Chinasurfreport and Outside Magazine China.
Copywriter: Joe “Turfle” Bretzke